SUIT UP THIS SPRING.
Sadly, many men – especially those who are in good shape with wider shoulders, back and chest and a narrow waist – find it quite difficult to find their size straight off the rack. The answer to finding a suit that fits you perfectly is to get it tailor made. Not only can you achieve the fit that you want, but you can also select the fabric and styling to get the exact look that you’re after. Men’s Fitness speaks with Jatin V – Founder and Creative Director of Montagio Custom Tailoring about the benefits of getting your suits and shirts tailor made.
Most people feel that “fit” is the most important factor when buying suits, and I would have to agree. In fact, the reason so many people choose tailor made suits instead of off-the-rack suits is because they can achieve the perfect fit – whether they have a difficult to fit body shape or not.
Ideally, your suit should fit your unique body shape and take into account fine details such as:
- Shoulder slope
- Waist size and shape
- Shoe type
We often see professional men looking like robots in their suits because the shoulders are too square, or the suit is not tapered at the waist or is boxy, or the bottom of the trousers are flared too much. We all know how frustrating it is to wear clothing that falls awkwardly, especially when it costs you an arm and a leg. That’s the benefit of having your suit tailor-made – you won’t need to have it altered several times before it fits perfectly, because we continuously ask for feedback from the customer as we are measuring them to best understand their preferences before the garment is actually made.
The second most important factor is the ability to customize the look when you buy a suit that’s tailor made from scratch. You will be offered design options that you probably have never even thought of, and can add personal touches to get a truly unique look.
A few of the ways you can customise your suit are:
- Huge range of fabrics to choose from made from cashmere and wool, worsted wool, wool blends, linen, cotton, etc.
- Large selection of linings to choose from made from bemberg silk, acetate or poly-viscose
- Lapel shape – peak, notch, or shawl
- Lapel width – can be slim 2” or 2.5”, standard 3”, or extra-wide 3.5” width.
- Pocket style – slant or straight, with or without ticket pocket
- Cuff style – opt for surgeon (working) cuff buttons vs imitation buttonholes
- Pick stitching or plain finish around edges of lapel and pockets
- Monogram inside the jacket e.g. Specially Tailored for James C.
- Option to select button and buttonhole colour
Some of the fit and customisation options available when having a suit tailor made can help overcome common issues that those with distinctive body types often have when suit shopping.
For instance, tall, lean men often have the problem where if the suit fits well on their body, the jacket sleeves and trouser length is too short, or alternatively if the suits is the right length for their height, it is too baggy. A tailored suit can be made both the right length and the right fit on the body.
Shorter or larger men can look taller and slimmer in a custom tailored suit by selecting dark or pinstripe fabrics to accentuate length for a slimming effect. Slim shorter men can also opt for a slightly shorter jacket length to make the legs look longer and hence visually look taller. Other customizations on the jacket such as a peak lapel or a slim notch lapel, as well as having slanted pockets can also give the suit a sleek streamlined appearance.
When you are looking at buying a tailored suit, it’s very easy to be tempted to experiment because of the sheer abundance of fabric choices. If it is your first or second suit, my recommendation is simple: choose a navy or charcoal suit, as these colours are versatile; you can wear many different shirt and tie combinations but always look professional and not have to think too much about matching colours.
Save your experimentation for your second or third tailored suit – at which point you may opt for light grey, beige, bright blue, or even a bold pinstripe.
Solid block colour fabrics with no pattern are of course always a safe bet. If you want texture, then herringbone patterns work well as they are quite subtle. I recommend avoiding pinstripes for your first suit because you have to be careful about your shirt and tie combinations. Since the shirt should ideally match the colour of the pinstripe on the suit, if you ever wanted to wear a different coloured shirt, you would need to wear another suit.
If you want to look fashion forward without spending a fortune, stick to the basics:
- 1 navy suit and 1 charcoal suit (with two trousers for each suit to make the suits last longer)
- 5 white shirts
- 1 pair of black shoes – either lace-up or slip-on (lace-less) and notpatent leather
- 1 pair of brown shoes – preferably darker shade like chocolate
With the proper care and by rotating wear, these items can last for years and never go out of style.
Your suit is an investment. After all, first impressions count (not to mention subsequent impressions). In fact, people make snap judgements about your level of intelligence, how hard you would work, and how to treat you based on your appearance. Wouldn’t you prefer to look sharp and savvy in a well-fitted suit as opposed to sloppy in a baggy suit as you head off to your next job interview, work meeting, corporate presentation or function?
For hard working garments that go the distance and make you look damn good for almost any occasion, I recommend a custom tailored navy blue suit with the following style features:
- Two button jacket
- 5″ width Notch Lapel
- Slanted lower pockets
- Two matching trousers*
- Light-weight wool for year round comfort
*I recommend two pairs of trousers so you can alternate their wear and extend the life of your suit because trousers wear out faster than jackets. You can wear a navy blue suit year round and dress it up or down to alter its formality.
When you choose classic style elements such as single breasted, two button jackets, you can be confident your suit won’t go out of style before your third promotion.
THE CUSTOM TAILORING PROCESS AT MONTAGIO:
- The first step is to Book an appointment – this allows us to give you undivided attention. During your appointment you will receive one-on-one personal styling where:
- You will select the fabrics you like from our extensive & luxurious range
- We’ll help you to design your suit, shirt or jacket to your requirements
- We then professionally take your measurements and assess your body shape to ensure a perfect fit
- Your garments will then begin production by our tailors and in 3 to 4 weeks’ time, your garments will be ready for you to try on.
- If any adjustments are required, we take care of them with our perfect fit guarantee. Our track record shows that our custom garments fit perfectly first time for 4 out of every 5 customers. For your convenience, we have an in-house tailor who can perform any adjustments if required to fine-tune the fit – it’s all part of the custom tailoring process.
What’s even better is that your measurements are kept on record, so the next time you need a new suit, shirt or jacket it’s a breeze. Your subsequent orders can take as little as 10 minutes.
At last, shopping for menswear is made simple.
Founder & Creative Director
Montagio Custom Tailoring